Universal Genève Tribute to Compax: Bringing Back ‘The Nina’

If you know Universal Genève, you know ‘the Nina’ – and honestly, how could you not? That one photograph has become part of motorsport style history: Nina Rindt, effortlessly composed, timing her husband Jochen’s laps with a Compax secured to a wide leather cuff. The red chronograph hand for visibility, the oversized bund strap she found in Paris… small, almost incidental choices that ended up reshaping one of the most desirable vintage chronographs of the 20th century. Reissuing it felt inevitable. Doing it well – far less so.

The new Tribute to Compax approaches the task with a welcome sense of restraint. On the dial, the choice is grand feu enamel, the oldest and least forgiving method in the book. Multiple firings at more than 800°C, any imperfection meaning you start again, the colours classic but with a depth you can’t imitate. And of course, the red chronograph seconds hand remains.

The bund straps are produced by Paris-based leather artisan Satoru Hosoi, who recreates the military cuff idea as couture – three interlocking pieces of calfskin, sewn permanently together with no detachable shortcuts. It’s a detail that makes no sense for mass production but perfect sense for a brand that wants to signal its standards.

Inside the watch beats a restored Universal Genève 281 movement – a manual-winding column-wheel chronograph from the era when the original Compax helped maintain the brand’s reputation. It is not a new caliber, nor does it pretend to be. It is a bridge back to what collectors actually loved: engineering that made sense, built with personality and intention. In an industry full of ‘in-house’ claims stretched to their limit, this kind of honesty feels refreshing.

The Tribute to Compax is speaking directly to the people who kept the name alive during its long dormancy. It is a message that Universal Genève intends to return as itself: a watchmaker that treats craft seriously and understands the importance of getting the foundations right.

Only two complete sets of these watches will exist, with proceeds supporting the Geneva Watchmaking School. The full relaunch is planned for 2026, but this opening chapter already hints at a brand returning with confidence, precision and a level of thoughtfulness that collectors had long hoped for.